In a quiet corner of Andhra Pradesh, where looms hum stories of history and heritage, the humble yet regal Kuppadam saree continues to hold its ground as a symbol of tradition, artistry and evolving identity. While most eyes turn to the celebrated Kanjeevarams or the intricate Banarasis, the Kuppadam saree tells its own tale, one that begins in the looms of a small town called Chirala in Bapatla district, located near the famous Suryalanka Beach.
What’s in a name?
Kuppadam saree gets its name from a complex weaving technique called Koopadam. Inspired by a need to design temple sarees with elaborate zari borders resembling temple architecture, weavers of this region began interlocking silk borders with cotton or silk over 150 years ago. It was a radical departure from the regular border stitching, which required an assistant weaver. This sets Kuppadam saree from Kanjeevarams other traditional saree designs.
Every thread spun in these six-yard wonders speaks of a deep-rooted cultural legacy handed down generations, held together by the dexterous hands of weavers who blend art and heritage on every warp and weft.
A Kuppadam Saree.
| Photo Credit:
T. VIJAY KUMAR
Sajja Ramakrishna, who has been weaving the sarees for the past three decades at Desaipeta village near Chirala, says this unique technique required a distinctive set of skills passed down orally from one generation to the next. Stretching a half-woven saree across a loom at his residence, Ramakrishna says there was a time when he thought his loom would go silent but is now happy that the public have once again begun to appreciate these exquisitely designed sarees.
Ramakrishna added that the looms used in Chirala, a portmanteau word derived from ‘chira’ meaning saree and ‘ala’ meaning wave, are mostly pit looms. Handloom fabrics made in Chirala are famous for softness and durability and suite all climates. Chirala looms mostly manufacture cotton and pure silk sarees with half fine zari, with jacquard weave and dress materials. The saree measures 1.19 m by 6.50 m.
What sets them apart
Unlike regular sarees where the border and body are woven in continuity, Kuppadam sarees employs a three-shuttle technique wherein the border and the body are woven separately and then interlocked manually at every line—a painstaking, time-consuming process requiring extreme precision, explained B. Rambabu, a master weaver who gives material to workers and procures the finished product to sell in the market or supply to retailers.
Silk used to make Kuppadam sarees, at Chirala town in Bapatla district.
| Photo Credit:
T. VIJAY KUMAR
At the heart of the Kuppadam saree is a remarkable blend of cotton or silk body and silk zari border, making it ideal for festive occasions as well as regular wear in the sultry climate of coastal Andhra. The body is typically woven in vibrant colours of pink, maroon, green and blue, with motifs inspired by nature, folklore and temple murals. The hallmark of these sarees is their rich pallu (end piece) and distinctive gold or silver zari borders that reflect grandeur without the weight of full-silk sarees.
This lightweight appeal, coupled with their affordability compared to pure silk sarees, has made them a staple in Andhra households, especially during ceremonies such as engagements, housewarmings and festivals like Sankranti and Ugadi.
Revival from extinction
By early 2000s, demand for Kuppadam sarees had dwindled due to the rise of power looms and cheaper synthetic imitations. The painstaking weaving was no match for the speed and economics of machine-made sarees. As younger generations moved away from the handloom profession, the community of Kuppadam weavers began to shrink.
But just then, a resurgence began. Quietly but firmly, initiatives such as the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry gave weavers their much-needed support. The State government has designated them as the ODOP for Bapatla district this year, giving weavers a fresh breath of life and recognition. The announcement was made by Babpatla District Collector J. Venkata Murali.
Siddi Venkata Buchheswara Rao, a merchant at Devangapuri near Chirala, said women entrepreneurs and designer collectives were now showcasing contemporary versions of Kuppadam sarees, merging tradition with innovation.
Evolving cultural significance
In Andhra culture, gifting a Kuppadam saree to a bride or a daughter-in-law is seen as a gesture of elegance and familial pride. The saree becomes more than an outfit, it transforms into a repository of memory, worn during milestone moments such as baby showers, temple visits or the first festival after marriage.
Moreover, the revival of this saree has had a significant socio-economic impact. According to government data, hundreds of weaving families have resumed their looms in Chirala and neighboring villages. The weaving process, often a family endeavour, involves men operating the looms while women help in dyeing, stretching the yarn, and post-weave embellishments.
Today, one can find Kuppadam sarees infused with modern aesthetics — digital motifs, contemporary pastel shades, minimalistic borders — all the while retaining the essential koopadam craftsmanship. Designers are working closely with weavers to co-create limited edition sarees that appeal to urban consumers and global markets.
Efforts are also under way to secure Geographical Indication (GI) status for the saree, which would offer legal protection and further marketing advantage, says D. Venkateswara Rao, District Handlooms and Textiles Officer, Bapatla district. If secured, it will help preserve the weaving technique and shield artisans from exploitative imitation, he adds.
In the whirl of fast fashion and digital consumption, the Kuppadam saree remains a slow and intentional art form. Every saree takes days to complete, and is a reflection of patience, skill and a deep sense of pride in heritage. As the saree goes from looms of Chirala to the closets of customers, it does more than wrap a body—it wraps generations of memory, craft and culture. And in doing so, it ensures that Andhra Pradesh’s threads of legacy never truly unravel.
